We pulled up to an old theatre in the middle of roiling, boiling, dirty, downtown Medellin. I suppose the thing that most surprised me were the armed guards. I’d gotten used to seeing private security with shotguns everywhere, not to mention police and army loaded down with heavy-duty firepower. But there was something very odd about the way the theatre was cordoned off on either side of the sidewalk by gun-wielding security guards in immaculate black uniforms. Something was lacking. German Shepherds perhaps, maybe razor wire or watchtowers. On either side of the cordon stood perhaps 100 people or more. Normal people, mothers with kids, street kids, some downtown characters, lots of regular folks. The people watching us were real people. They were gawking at us. And I supposed, looking around, that we were worth gawking at. The buses (these were for the kids, not the staff) were brand new and impeccably clean. The kids wore their uniforms casually, but they all had ipods and expensive shoes and watches, and though I’d never really noticed it before, in comparison to the people watching us, these kids looked absolutely loaded. Stinking loaded. I felt like I was on the red carpet on Academy Awards night, but instead of possessing the dubious talents of Hollywood actors, we possessed a meaningless and utterly unearned status: being rich. Our audience did not seem hostile, but were instead rather curious. Filing off the bus, the kids were indifferent to their surroundings. They were talking amongst each other and laughing, listening to their ipods and playing with their cell phones, oblivious to the gauntlet of humanity that they were passing through. Royalty without any of the good graces. The peasants that watched them might have been trees or stones for all the interest they elicited from the snot nosed bunch of piglets that were piling into the theatre. I looked around for Mavis but she had already gone in.
Inside the theatre was pandemonium. Ushers with white gloves and pillbox hats straight out of the 1930’s were trying to herd the kids into their seats. In vain. The teachers were half-heartedly helping, but it was an exercise in futility and we knew it. I went back to the lobby and stood by the door, pretending to be of some use. I couldn’t wait until the play started so that I could sneak out and go for a wander. It was two and a half hours long, completely in Spanish, and the audience was comprised of belligerent philistines. There was no way in the world I was being paid enough to suffer that kind of punishment. As I breathed in slowly and started to let my shoulders down, I heard a voice behind me that made my hair stand on end.
“Well there he is! Troublemaker number 1! HA!”
I ignored the voice and closed my eyes, hoping for a miracle, hoping that this retarded baby of a man, this oaf, this Alex, was not talking to me. But of course he was.
“Thought you could sneak out did ya? HA! I caught you fair and square! So what do you got to say for yourself, trouble maker?”
The beaming full moon of his idiot face loomed into my field of vision. I took a deep breath.
“Hi Alex.” I mean, was he really so bad? He was just trying to be friendly. He was awkward, that was all. A little bit insecure. Would it be so hard for me to be nice to him?
“Okay fella. Thirty lashes with a wet noodle! HA HA!!”
Good Christ. I smiled at him. Or did my best to smile. It might have come out as more of a grimace. I tried though. Foolishly, I went one further.
“So, how are you finding things so far Alex?”
He leapt on this tidbit, this tiniest sliver of openings, like a paparazzi on a celebrity nipple slip.
“Well, let me tell you. This school has got some problems. Holy Dinah. She’s got some problems. But I’ll tell you this, the kids are pretty easy compared to my last school. HA HA!”
“Oh really?”
“Listen. The last school I was at was a rough one. Boy, was it a rough one.” Alex stroked his chin, gazing into space with a pained look on his face like he was reliving the horrors of a war not yet forgotten.
“Yep. It was a rough one.” Either I was not prompting him well enough or he was lost in thought. I decided to remain silent.
“One time, a kid was dealing drugs in my class.”
“Really.”
“Yep. Right in my class. Angel Dust.”
“Angel Dust?”
“Angel Dust. You know, L.S.D. Smack. Real zombie stuff.” He had clearly watched too many drug prevention movies in the 1970’s and was mixing up his details. I said nothing.
“So one time, I got mad. All this drug dealing in my class. I jumped him and pinned him down. I asked my kids to run for help.”
“You attacked a student?”
“The principal came, along with the Gym teacher. It took the three of us to restrain him.”
“You attacked a student?”
“It was rough times at that school. Rough times.”
I said nothing. It was embarrassing really. I felt badly for him. I wished that he had never come over. Why did I have to ask him a question? I was clearly expected to comment, to prompt him further, to express some kind of shock or somehow be blown away by his exploits, his feats of daring-do. After a thousand years of exquisitely painful silence, he continued. Having not yet roped me in, he was adding even more hot air to an already disgusting bit of fiction.
“So I asked him at the office, ‘Do you have any weapons?’ He shook his head no. So I reached into his jacket and pulled out a Bowie knife about that long.” He held his hands a foot or so apart. The classic big fish that got away.
“I took that knife and dropped it point first onto the principal’s desk and it stuck in there, bboooinnnggg. So you got no weapons huh? I hope you’re prepared to tell this story to the police.”
It was too painful. Where was I supposed to go from there? I felt ill. I needed to get away.
“I’ve got to use the can. Be right back.”
I wanted to feel sorry for him. It was such a grasp, such a reach, such a pathetic attempt to ingratiate himself that it was pitiable. But the pity was washed over with revulsion. That a grown man, well into middle age, nearing old age needed such school-boy bluster…. It was sick. After a few minutes dawdling in the urine-scented chamber, I left. Alex was still lingering by the door, but was luckily babbling at one of the Colombian teachers. I braced myself and strolled out past him.
“Whoa, big fella! Where are you headed?”
I just waved over my shoulder and plodded on desperately ahead.
“The show starts in five minutes!”
He was yelling. People were staring at me. Surely that would be the end of it.
“I’ll save you a seat!!!”
I was a good half a block and he was still yelling. I turned. He was coming after me! Unbelievable nightmare. I started to run.